Pro-Palestinian vs. Anti Demonstration

Thousands March In Support Of Palestinian State

I suppose this should be a rite of passage for anybody traveling to Israel: their first protest about The Situation. One sunny day in Jerusalem on July 15th was mine. That particular day, thousands marched to show their support for a Palestinian state. They waved banners, shouted slogans, and blocked traffic. People carried signs that said, “Only free people can negotiate” and “67,” a reference to returning to the pre-1967 borders.

I only happened to find out about this because it occurred right outside the hostel I was staying in near the Old City. Certainly the various Arab vendors selling food and items near the hostel didn't look eager to or join, or that excited at all really. They just continued selling.

“Palestinian, Israeli, just money is what I care about,” said one.

As I gazed into the crowd and chat with various marchers, I discover that the crowd seems to be comprised mainly of Israelis and other nationalities, rather than Palestinians.

“The two groups (the Israelis and the Palestinians) are not united, with the conflict based on national groups, what happens is the groups separate, sadly enough,” said one white-haired Israeli marcher. “Even though they agree and they have the same ideas, it's hard to get them to participate in political action. The Israelis are the occupiers and the Palestinians are the occupied.”

When I asked him why he was marching, his answer had the flavor of one man speaking on behalf of many, as well as experience.

“I think it's a matter of choice of solidarity with the Palestinian people for the right to have an independent Palestinian state alongside the state of Israel. This is why we as Israelis we have to encourage the public that it's in the best interests of both people to have a Palestinian state,” he explained. “A large majority of Israelis, they are just the silent majority.” Boy, that phrase will never get old. “But I think most of us (Israelis) think it is in the best interests of Israel to have a Palestinian state. The sad truth is that the right-wingers are in power and ruling the Knesset (the Israeli Parliament). But I think that the majority of Israelis are for the two-state solution.”

Aside from the seeming lack of Palestinian participation, there's a large variety of ages, nationalities, and faces. There's even a girl from my home state of Wisconsin who's helping to build homes for Palestinians.

Of course, there are a few soldiers stand by watching the marchers, but it seems peaceful. They mainly stand back and watch.

The crowd switches entirely to English for a brief moment as they pass by the American Consulate. The atmosphere is tense for a moment, but the crowd keeps going, much to my relief. There's just something about seeing such a large crowd protest my own home that saddens me. Really, as an American I should be used to it. I wonder what the many Israelis in the crowd must think of their country.

A few people have also staged a very small counter-protest. They wave Israeli flags, sing songs, and chant a few slogans of their own. By small, I mean there are about ten, most of whom appear to be very religious Jews. I eagerly approach them, hoping to meet people rather than the stereotypical right-wingers that they're so often portrayed as. Sadly, this is hardly the case. What I get are very stereotypical, almost textbook answers.

One of them eagerly responds to my requests to talk when I ask if anyone speaks English. She says her family was originally from Iraq, and were thrown out in 1948 because they were Jewish. Apparently, they were forced to leave everything they had behind, and had little more than the clothes on their backs. Israel took them in.

“We can't accept this Fascist ideal for Israel,” the woman said. “This is a Jewish state, and this is for Israel and for those who are loyal to Israel. That means anyone who is not Jewish, but is loyal to Israel. Those who will destroy Israel have no respect here.”

I ask her if she believes in only one state. She replies, “It is one state, it is Israel. There's never been Palestine, never been the Palestinian people. Palestine is Jordan. And all the people that call themselves Palestinian can go and live in Jordan, not here.”

The soldiers immediately gather around them, not out of support, but rather for protection. With barely a handful of counter-protesters and thousands opposing them, it's the small group with their Israeli flags that need all the protection they can get today. Not that the protesters don't have their own stereotypes. One particularly loud one with dreadlocks walks over, screaming profanities in various languages. I jump when I hear a series of loud bangs and smoke, but apparently it's just firecrackers.

After that, the protesters proceed into a park, where it evolves into a kind of outdoor picnic. There's music, free water, and singing. I walk away feeling I've learned something. Stereotypes were confirmed and disproved, and there were a few surprises. Not bad for my first Israeli protest.